Most opener calls split into two buckets: something mechanical (drive gear, chain, belt, sprocket) or something electrical (logic board, capacitor, wall control, safety sensor pair). We test the motor, check the travel limits, and look at the sensor eyes before opening the housing, because a misaligned sensor can mimic a dead board.
If the gear's stripped, that's a part swap and a travel reset - straightforward. If the board's gone, we check whether a replacement board exists for that unit before we commit to it; some older heads are discontinued enough that board-level repair isn't worth chasing, and a full opener swap ends up being the honest call. We'll tell you which bucket you're in before we start charging for parts.